Hardanger Embroidery

Hardanger, or Hardangersom, is a form of whitework named after the area of Norway where it is found. This form of needlework involves counted thread stitches, drawn thread work and some pulled thread embroidery. It is worked on evenweave fabric of either cotton or linen with linen or pearl cotton threads. Though traditionally worked in white thread on white fabric, color has been used for many years now, both in the fabrics and threads.

Traditionally used for linens, caps, and especially aprons, the work was carried out on white fabrics as fine as 50 threads to the inch using white thread, but coarser fabrics and coloured threads are often used nowadays. Hardanger fabric thread consists of two strands which must never be split. Since knots are never used in Hardanger embroidery, begin each piece by leaving a three-inch tail of thread which will be drawn under the completed satin stitch blocks on the wrong side of the piece.

History:
While the history of Hardanger embroidery is not well documented, it was popular during the Renaissance period, when the use of linen for clothing increased. It spread its way to Italy, where lovely lace motifs of Punto Taglito and Punto Rialto were done. There it developed into the Punto Aria patterns of Venetian lace. Some motifs of Hardanger show an Assyrian and Egyptian influence which can be traced to the Vikings’ many sea forays far into the Mediterranean Sea. The eight-pointed star of Hardanger embroidery is also found in the embroidery of India and is a universal symbol.

Origin:
Hardanger embroidery is a delicate form of open needlework which originated in the Hardanger region of Norway hundreds of years ago. It gradually spread to other parts of Europe and then to the United States with the Scandinavian immigrants.

Fabric:
Hardanger embroidery is a form of counted-thread embroidery which must be worked on an even-weave fabric. Traditionally, the work was done on white linen with white thread; however, the fabric most commonly used today is an even-weave cotton with 22 threads per inch. This fabric, known appropriately as Hardanger fabric, is imported mostly from Europe, and comes in a variety of colors. Many other even-weave fabrics have recently become available and are also suitable for Hardanger embroidery.

Thread:
The thread used in Hardanger embroidery, pearl cotton, is available in many shades. Two sizes of thread are needed to complete the embroidery. The heavier work, including satin stitches, solid motifs and the buttonhole edge, is embroidered with pearl cotton, #5. The finer work, completed after the cutting and removal of some threads of the fabric, uses a single thread of size #8 pearl cotton.

Needles and equipment for Hardanger:

• The only supplies needed, in addition to even-weave fabric and pearl cotton thread, are tapestry needles. Tapestry needles are used for stitching this form of embroidery. Tapestry needles are important because they have blunt points and will not split the threads of the fabric as easily as sharp needles. You will need two sizes, one for each thread. Try a size 20 for the Pearl no 5, size 22 for the Pearl no 8, and a size 24 for Pearl 12.
• A good quality embroidery scissors. Very sharp, pointed embroidery scissors are necessary for cutting the threads cleanly, those with angled blades to make the cutwork easy to accomplish and neat in appearance.
• I find that the kloster blocks and surface stitching is easier to do if the fabric is secured in an embroidery hoop. I remove it before cutting the fabric threads, however. Like me, you may also find the needleweaving easier to do “in hand” rather than with the fabric in a hoop.
• A small pointed pair of tweezers may also come in handy for easing out the fabric threads after they are cut. Oh and a little container, in which to pop the cut threads, can help to keep your working area neat and tidy.