Zardozi the imperial metal embroidery, adorned the costumes of the royalty, wall hanging, scabbards, walls of the regal tents and the rich trappings of elephants and horses. Intricate patterns in gold and silver, studded with pearls and precious stones enhanced the beauty of rich and glowing silk, velvet and brocade.

History
Zardozi is an ancient Persian embroidery form (Zar in Persian means gold and Dozi is embroidery) that has been passed down for generations. It reached its peak under the patronage of Mughal Emperor Akbar. It saw a decline during the reign of Aurangzeb as the royal patronage and favor stopped and and the art was too expensive and the precious metals too rare to carry on.

Zari and Zardozi work was revived after independence in Hydrabad and Lucknow. The rarity of precious metal lead to the use of copper with gold or silver polish or the silk thread. Now the embroidery style is back in bloom. It is a must for any Indian wedding trousseau.

Process Stitches and Styles
Zari embroidery is done with a crochet hook using the metallic thread and appears like chain stitch. Zardozi is an extension of the same. Zari elements like coiled wire, dabka, tilla, beads etc are used to create the motifs. Zardozi can alternatively be called metallic applique embroidery.

The most prevalent zardozi elements segments of dabkaa, a tightly wound spiral metal, Kora, a heavier and darker dabkaa a square sided dabkaa that is wiry and erratic in appearance, sitaaras, round sequins, glass and plastic beads and kasab, silver or gold-plated silver thread

The process involves tracing out the design on the cloth preferably rich fabrics like silk, satin velvet etc. The fabric is stretched over the wooden frame and the embroidery work begins. Each zardozi element is picked up by the needle and incorporated appropriately into the pattern by pushing the needle in the fabric.

The process of creating zari threads and zardozi elements was rather complicated earlier. It needed a lot of patience and precision. Today the modern means may have made the task a little easier but still the adeptness and delicate handling remains the same.

Zardozi and zari garments have become very popular and make elegant evening and ceremonial ware. The art is now being used for soft furnishing products also.

Chikankari was nurtured in Uttar Pradesh and primarily in Lucknow. The work is done on very fine muslin and now on georgette and chiffon and other fine fabrics. It is more suited for the outerwear but these days there are certain exclusive creations using Chikan work in Cushion covers, pillow covers and table linen. Partition curtains with the chikan embroidery are fast gaining ground.

History of Chikankari
Traditionally Chicknkari is the white thread embroidery done on the white muslin or mulmul. The word chikan comes from the Persian word Chakeen meaning making delicate patterns on the fabric.

The art is said to be introduced by Noorjahan the beautiful queen of Emperor Jahangir. She is said to be an expert in embroidery and inspired by the Turkish embroidery. According to Megasthenes, the chikan originated in East Bengal. He mentions chikan, the florals on fine muslins in 3rd century BC. The craftsmen believe that the origin goes back to the time of Prophet. It is believed that while he was passing through a village in Uttar Pradesh, he requested a villager for water. On being offered that, he gave the art of Chikankari to the poor villager as an art that will never let him go hungry.

Process and Stitches of Chikankari
Whatever be the origin, the intricacy and the patterns remind you of the fine marble carvings and jalis. Today the apart from the white muslin, light tinted fabrics are used. The thread is prefered white. The most commendable part of chikankari is the open work ground, an effect of drawn thread work is achieved without drawing out any.

The most common motif used is that of a creepers. Floral motifs may enrich the entire garment or just one corner. Among the floral motifs embroidered, the jasmine, rose, flowering stems, lotus and the paisley motif are the most popular.

There is simply no match for the shadow work involved in the chikan. In this the herringbone stitch or Bakhiya as called locally is worked on the wrong side of the cloth. Looking on the right side the effect is that of the shadows between the double running stitch. Another variation of shadow work is created by cutting the patterns in the same fabric as the base material and stitching it on the wrong side.

There are other stitches to give different stitches. The tiny raised flowers are made with stitches resembling French knots. The raised effect is evened off using the simple stem stitch called Rahet. Various effects can be created using a variety of stitches and combination. Mainly buttonhole stitch (Hool), running stitch, and chain stitch (Zanzeer) are used to give the fillers and yet not give it a cluttered appearance. The jali or the lattice created by the thread tension on the cloth is most remarkable.

Kashmiri embroidery or kashida is colorful and beautiful as Kashmir itself. Embroiders often draw inspiration from the beautiful nature around. The colors the motifsof flowers, creepers and chinar leaves, mango etc. are the most common ones. The whole pattern is created using one or two embroidery stitch styles.

Process and Stitches
The base cloth whether wool or cotton, is generally white or cr