Ahir Bharat Embroidery

Ahir Bharat EmbroideryAhir tribes can be found in Kutch - chiefly Bhuj, Anjar and Mandvi talukas. Their style similar to mochi or aari embroidery. Among the Hindu Ahir the items commonly embroidered are bags (Kothries), wall hangings or Chaklas. In the house on each side of the doorway are Sankias or Barsankias. These embroided strips adorn either side of the doorway with a Toran hanging above the doorway. Sets of embroided clothing lavishly decorated with Shisha or mirror work forms an important part of their ceremonial clothing.

The Ahirs, who migrated from Gokul Mathura settled mostly in Kutch and Saurashtra. They are mostly engaged in agriculture. Women of the Ahir community do needle work, when they get time from the work m the house and fields. This embroidery resembles Rabari stitches but only round mirrors are used with geometrical and floral motifs. Their dresses are embellished with embroidered articles. Kotay, Dhori, Sumraser, Habai, Lodai, Dharempur, Padhar, Dhanette, Mamuara, Nagor, Cheperedi are main centres of Ahir embroidery.

Patterns and Stitches
Ahir bharat has a flowing style. Motifs such as peacocks, parrots, scorpions, elephants, the milk maid and flowers are used. The designs are drawn free hand and transferred on to the cloth using stencil.

The outermost detailed stitch is called ‘kanta’ due to its resemblance to babool tree thorn. ‘Bakhiya’ is a detailing stitch and ‘dana’ is used for filling gaps. Chain stitch called ’sankali is used for outlines filled in with a herringbone stitch called ‘vana’. Mirrors, called ‘abhla’ are used frequently. Tear drop shap is most commonly used in different motifs.

Mirror Embroidery

One of the most attractive things in Indian specifically Gujarati embroidery is incorporating the shisha or the mirror. The art is supposed to have its origin in Persia somewhere aroind 13th century. The mirror work is used along with the other stitches to enhance the general effect of the pattern.

It is used by the Jats of Banni. They cut the glass into different shapes and embroider it in the fabric. Incredibly miniscule mirror embroidery was done on heavily encrusted yoke with white thread, mingled with red, orange, blue and green, by the Garari Jat community. In Kathi embroidery the mirrors are used for eyes of birds and center of flowers.

Often combination of cross stitch, satin stitch and buttonhole stitch, along with mirrors Though very common in gujarat , mirror work is done in other regions as well. It is don in Rajasthan with the same fervor. It is used to accentuate the appearance of Orissa applique.

It is said that earlier mica was used instead of mirror. Later ornamental mirror shapes were cut out of an urn, blown out by a mouth pipe. Now mirror sheets are produced.

Bidri Embroidery

Bidri comes from the place called Bidar near Hydrabad in Andhra Pradesh. Bidri refers to the art of silver inlay on black colored metal. The embroiderers there tried to bring that same effect on cloth. It is silver embroidery primatily on black cloth. The stitches and the elements are same as Zardozi.

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