Embroidery Designs

Though the themes may not have changed, embroidery designs and patterns have changed with time, region and style and of course religious beliefs. Indian embroidery designs are based on four broad themes namely nature, its flora and fauna, religion and life of people. Impact of foreign cultures and art form has left a visible effect on the styles.

Patterns in phulkari and chikan are generally floras, twines and vines. Different stitches give the uniqueness and the effect the. Phulkari has bright colored floral designs densely filled. Chikankari is predominantly white embroidery with shadow and jali work.

The kantha is more of a self expression depicting life of people and religious beliefs. Kasuti is representation of religion with gopurams, triangles and supporting motifs. Kashmiri embroidery is pure depiction of nature. As per the muslim belief, human and animal figures should not be used so the forms influenced by Persian or the Turkish styles or the samples obtained of the Mughal era have more floral or geometric patterns.

Colored Embroidery

There are basically three embroidery styles owing to the color used. They are white embroidery, black embroidery and colored embroidery.

White embroidery was done in Egypt, India and Western Europe. It is still practiced as Ayrshire Needlework , Chikankari and Whitework. Egyptians used white thread on white background, Dresden work of Germany used embroidered lace and Ayrshire Needlework belonged to Scotland. The English and Czech had unique whitework with satin stitching and cut work. In India white embroidery is practiced as Chikan work. The thread used is white the base is generally white though light, dull colors may be used.

Blackwork is a counted-thread embroidery worked in geometric designs with black silk and metallic threadon even-weave linen or silk. In England, on clothing items, the favored color was black on white. When the same designs were executed on samplers or household linens, they may be found in pastels The style involves outlining or defining elements and filling elements. The Elizabethans frequently called blackwork Spanysshe work.

Color Embroidery is more realistic and earthly. Bright colors beads and shells were the expression of common man in needle and thread. The religious themes lifestyles and nature are the common themes. Though intricate, colored embroidery in various styles and stitches was done by the most down to earth tribal people and farmers to the most aristocratic and rich.

Machine Embroidery

The invention of embroidery machines devastated the hand embroidery industry, causing major economic crises in many parts of the world. It is the common allegation that machine embroidery has to go with.

It may have been true in that era when most of the people were adept in hand embroidery. Gradually, machine embroidery has developed as an individual art. The machine embroidery involves as much dedication and technique as hand embroidery. The speed may have increased but the patterns are still the same. The representation may be different, themes are still the same.

The motifs can be floral, religious, natural surroundings, geometrical or realistic, the fineness comes with practice as in any other art. In the beginning, it may have been the imitation of the handwork, contemporary machine embroidery is an original, unique art form.

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