Metal Embroidery

The use of metal embroidery in Indian textiles and costumes, especially the ones used for special occasions or ceremonial purposes, demonstrate the importance of gold and silver within the culture.

Zari, that means “gold” in Persian, refers to the metallic threads used in weaving. Zardozi embroidery involves the use of different shapes of metal wire like springs, coils, strips, ribbons and discs. Embroiderers carefully select from an elaborate assortment of components to create their own unique designs. The wedding vest is heavily adorned with such embroidery.

Zardosi is also called Ari and was at its peak in the Mughal era. The art declined for lack of precious metals for the purpose and high costs. It was again revived in 20th century with the use of plated copper that reduced the costs and gave the same effect.

Leather Embroidery

Leather Embroidery in India is more prevalent in the desert states of Gujarat and Rajasthan. Rajasthani craftsperson, nomads, that roamed the desert, found a fascinating way to fashion leather; leather embroidery. They made embroidered utility products in leather that included mirror, jooties (Shoes), bags, lampshades, book binds and kopis (water bottle). These products were adorned in different embroidery styles like thread embroidery using different stitches, bead work, brass eyelets, and appliqu

Fabric Embroidery

Embroidery is a fabric art. Leather Embroidery is a later invention. Embroidery is the embellishment of cloth with designs made by needle and thread. Different types of fabric, threads and techniques are used for fabric embroidery. They are affected by the region, religion and other crafts of the region.

This art of decorating fabric is the most antique form of clothes adornment and is unique to each place. Kashmiri embroidery was initially done on woolen Fabric with woolen thread. The motifs and colors are typical representations of the nature. Rumal Chambal is silk embroidery on even weave cloth. Phulkari is bright bold florals on coarse cotton cloth. Chikankari is Indian whitework on fine muslin and kantha is simple running stitch on quilts or quilted cloth.

Kasuti is the unique sari embroidery of Karnataka that uses religious motifs. And Zardosi uses metal thread on fabric. Mirror and bead work of Gujarat and Rajasthan have made a niche for themselves. There are so many other forms of embroidery each different from the other. Even the forms having a common origin that later developed in different region differ.

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