Blackwork Embroidery

Black work Embroidery is a form of counted-thread embroidery that is usually stitched on even-weave fabric. Any black thread can be used, but firmly twisted threads give a better look than embroidery floss. Traditionally blackwork is stitched in silk thread on white or off-white linen or cotton fabric. Sometimes metallic threads or coloured threads are used for accents.

ScarlBlackwork Embroidery is a form of counted-thread embroidery that is usually stitched on even-weave fabric. Any black thread can be used, but firmly twisted threads give a better look than embroidery floss. Traditionally blackwork is stitched in silk thread on white or off-white linen or cotton fabric. Sometimes metallic threads or coloured threads are used for accents. Scarletwork is like blackwork, except it is sewn with red thread. Black work is basically repeated patterns of straight stitches worked over an even weave fabric by counting each thread or hole. Black work can be shaded by using different thickness of thread or by breaking the repeat pattern. Different colours can be worked too such as red.

Blackwork in silk on linen was the most common domestic embroidery technique for clothing (shirts, smocks, sleeves, ruffs, and caps) and for household items such as cushion covers throughout the reign of Elizabeth I, but it lost its popularity by the 17th century.

You will need:

• Black embroidery thread
• A small piece of 10 count or 14 count Aida cloth (3″ x 8″)
• A counted cross-stitch needle (blunt)
• Fray Check or glue.

Stitches Used:

Even though the over all effect of Blackwork is ornate, most of the stitches are simple, but they are worked in such a way that conveys complexity.

holbein.jpg (149317 bytes)Double Running Stitch – The running stitch was often done in such a way that the work was reversible. This is also called the Holbein stitch, the Spanish stitch, line stitch and writing stitch. It gives a smoother line than backstitch and is easily worked on even weave fabric. If you do not have a stitch dictionary, click on the image to the right.

Other stitches used are: Stem Stitch, Back Stitch, Split Stitch, Algerian Eye, Bosnia Stitch, Double Cross Stitch, running stitch, and the list goes on…because of its many incarnation, there are a variety of stitches that can be used to create the complex patterns or reversible scrolling designs.

Hoop:

An embroidery hoop can be used but usually isn’t necessary. The Aida cloth is fairly stiff and easy to handle without a hoop.

Design Transfer Methods:

Transferring a design for Blackwork is different, because this is a counted method, that utilizes charts.

The easiest way to deal with a charted design is to find the middle of the chart and the middle of your fabric and begin from the inside out. If you start at an edge, you may waste fabric or fail to leave enough for a finished item.

If you are doing a complex geometric design, do a rough outline of where the design elements will be, then work each one as a separate entity, always starting in the middle.

Design Sources:

Design sources on the web are plentiful for Blackwork, mostly due to the enthusiasm of members of the Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA). In the process of recreating clothing and costumes from the Elizabethan era, they have uncovered some wonderful information and patterns. Paula Marmor published several books of Blackwork patterns, which are now long out of print, so she has graciously made many of the lovely patterns available on her website, The Blackwork Archives.

If you feel creative, get out some graph paper and start drawing geometric eye pleasing designs. You may come up with something both beautiful and unique.

Tip and Tricks:

• Use even weave fabric when possible.
• Mark the center of your fabric with a single strand of embroidery floss in long running stitches along both the vertical and horizontal axis.
• Use waste canvas if you want to do Blackwork on fabric without a weave.
• If you are constructing a garment, wash the fabric and soak the thread prior to stitching. You would not want the designs to pucker if there is shrinkage.
• Use a piece of graph paper to construct your own designs.
• Collars and cuffs look especially good when embellished with Blackwork.
• For scrolling designs, mark the center of the design with pins or loose running stitches before you begin work and work from the inside out.
• For outlined shapes, filled with geometric designs, mark the center of each element and work it from the inside out. This will be necessary to make sure the patterns are symmetrical.
• If you want your work to be reversible, make sure to use a waste knot or start with a running stitch, then reverse over it for a few stitches in order to secure it.
• If want your work to be reversible, but are having trouble making it work, try this to help you map it out. First, make a photocopy, then take out a highlighter and trace a path without lifting your pen from the paper. It may mean you have to break it the design up into smaller pieces to do that. Once you have marked off part of the graph as a continuous line, take another color marker and mark every other stitch. That way, when you go to stitch it from the diagram, you will be ready to do the Holbein Stitch on any charted design. Just go one direction following every other stitch, then turn around and come back.
• Because it can be stitched to be reversible, this is an excellent choice for decorating afghan cloth. Most afghan cloth is done in 5 inch even weave squares that would be well suited to Blackwork designs.