Ahir Bharat Embroidery

Ahir tribes can be found in Kutch - chiefly Bhuj, Anjar and Mandvi talukas. Their style similar to mochi or aari embroidery. Among the Hindu Ahir the items commonly embroidered are bags (Kothries), wall hangings or Chaklas. In the house on each side of the doorway are Sankias or Barsankias. These embroided strips adorn either side of the doorway with a Toran hanging above the doorway. Sets of embroided clothing lavishly decorated with Shisha or mirror work forms an important part of their ceremonial clothing.

The Ahirs, who migrated from Gokul Mathura settled mostly in Kutch and Saurashtra. They are mostly engaged in agriculture. Women of the Ahir community do needle work, when they get time from the work m the house and fields. This embroidery resembles Rabari stitches but only round mirrors are used with geometrical and floral motifs. Their dresses are embellished with embroidered articles. Kotay, Dhori, Sumraser, Habai, Lodai, Dharempur, Padhar, Dhanette, Mamuara, Nagor, Cheperedi are main centres of Ahir embroidery.

Patterns and Stitches
Ahir bharat has a flowing style. Motifs such as peacocks, parrots, scorpions, elephants, the milk maid and flowers are used. The designs are drawn free hand and transferred on to the cloth using stencil.

The outermost detailed stitch is called ‘kanta’ due to its resemblance to babool tree thorn. ‘Bakhiya’ is a detailing stitch and ‘dana’ is used for filling gaps. Chain stitch called ’sankali is used for outlines filled in with a herringbone stitch called ‘vana’. Mirrors, called ‘abhla’ are used frequently. Tear drop shap is most commonly used in different motifs.